Hualien Trip

A male host of a local radio show was announcing the result of the first Tourist-Friendly City/County Contest sponsored by Taiwan's Tourism Bureau and Global Views Magazine. 'Our Taroko Gorge won the top spot in the nature scenery category,' the host said. 'In the final stage of the contest, an army of certified "mystery shoppers", who disguised as ordinary tourists, were sent to visit and rate 48 places."

'Mystery shopper,' I thought to myself, 'It sounds like an interesting job.' I pretended that I was going to rate the dinner they were about to serve me at High Foot House restaurant.

I arrived at Hualien Station on the first day of the three-day long weekend, rent a car and drove south to Rueisuei Station. That was my first long solo drive, about 60km. I fought hard to keep my mind from wondering into random thoughts--random thoughts during driving could be lethal.

3km further west, along the road decorated with luminous signs of hot spring lodges and hotels, was my destination, Hongye Village, where I was hosted by a generous friend for two nights. I would describe Hongye as a spiritual place. Its tranquil hillside scenery created an atmosphere that made me believe the spirits of local aborigines' ancestors were indeed looking after their territory.

Sitting on the train heading back home, I recalled the spicy taste of the wasabi-flavored ice cream at Hualien Sugar Factory, the grand surface of Carp Lake, the coffee with goat's milk at Yuanyeh Resort, the salty sea wind at Cisingtan and the vibrant crowd at a traditional wedding luncheon. All of these had left an impression on me, but the place I missed the most was Hongye Village--where a baby girl was born and grew up; she left her home to learn and to gain experiences elsewhere, but eventual she came back to discover her origin.

I know that I will be back at Hualien again soon, not only for the most tourist-friendly Taroko Gorge, but also for the people living there.